I am sure once I see it all it will come together fine. I am looking at attempting to do the same but a little scared. I did not need to cut them to make them fit. I bent the stock lines by hand into the right positions being careful not to kink them. These attached to the back of the head and came together with a brass three way air connector. I went to a transmission shop and had some custom made 3/8" stainless steel fuel lines to go under the turbo. The only thing I left was the fuel lines coming into the valley from the tanks. The first thing I did was remove the stock filter housing and pump. Stainless hose clamps - (home depot) $7.00įuel pressure guage - (harbor freight) $5.00īrass three way connector - (harbor freight) $4.00įittings misc brass - (harbor freight) $13.00įuel pump bracket - (wrecking yard) $5.00 Oil pressure switch - Holley 12-810 () $28.00įuel regulator - Aeromotive 13109 () $133įuel hose - Parker (international dealer) $5.00 Secondary Filter - (WIX) 33528 () $9.00įuel Lines - Stainless steel 3/8" under turbo (local) $100 Prefilter and base - Stanadyne 33640 () $74.64 ![]() Here is the list of parts I used and the costs. Luckily others have done this before so I didn't have to try and figure out what regulator and filters would work. I know that you can buy kits to do this but part of the fun is trying to gather together all the parts you need. IDM mod, DIY stage Is, and to convert from mechanical to an electrical fuel system. I decided there was three things on my to do list. Now that winter is here I decided to park my truck in the shop to give me something to do in the evenings. The following is a copy of a post I did on another forum last year.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |